This guide to home composting 101 tackles a topic that gives many beginners anxiety. The truth is, the hardest part of composting is deciding to start. So, let’s talk everything home composting and get you going!
Home Composting 101: Topics Covered in This Article
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What is Composting? FAQs
Simply put, composting is when microbes break down organic material and make the nutrients available to return to the earth. The process can take as little as 1 to 3 months in the right conditions. Compost looks like soil, but there is so much more in this “black gold”. When added to your gardens the result is magnificent!
Why composting is good for the environment?
You may be reading this article and thinking, “Well isn’t this what happens in a landfill?” Sadly, the answer is a resounding no. Conditions in a landfill do not allow for airflow and organic material is not able to break down naturally since there is little oxygen. Instead, the food scraps and other organic material rot. The whole process takes years or even decades.
When food is rotting in an anaerobic environment, such as a landfill, not only does it stink, but large amounts of methane are released as a biproduct. This methane gas accounts for about 8% of global emissions. In fact, diverting food waste from the landfill is now the number one change that individuals can make to reduce greenhouse gases according to Project Drawdown. More than eating vegan, installing solar panels on your roof, or switching to an electric car!
Oh yeah baby, feel that compost power you literally have in your own hands!!
Why do gardeners prefer compost over synthetic fertilizers?
The “black gold” compost is a much sought after material for gardeners. This is because compost is the perfect soil amendment that provides drainage, natural fertilizer, and nutrients to your plants without “burning” them.
Burning happens with high nitrogen fertilizers as they can shock plants and actually damage them. When composting correctly, there is no risk of burning.
The compost, also called humus, provides excellent drainage, yet will hold moisture in plant roots. The superheroes of the process, the microbes, also improve the general quality of the soil. Not to mention the avoidance of toxic synthetic chemicals.
Of course you don’t have to call yourself a gardener to enjoy the benefits of compost. Follow the steps in this guide to home composting 101 and you will be on your way to have beautiful organic humus for your plants too.
What types of composting methods exist?
Did you know that there are different ways to compost? Here are three of the most common types of composting methods to use at home:
– Thermal composting: also called hot compost. This is a technique that uses natural bacteria found in the soil and on scraps to breakdown organic material, creating heat in the process, which then speeds up the breakdown even more. This is the type of home composting that most people think of and is the most common way to start a pile in your own yard.
– Vermicomposting: also known as worm composting. Earthworms are the heroes here that chomp on all your scraps and literally poop out compost (worm castings). This is a handy way to compost inside or in small spaces.
– Bokashi composting: A closed system that uses special bacteria in an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment to ferment food scraps. This is one way you could compost meat, dairy, and pet waste at home.
For the purposes of this home composting 101 article, we are focusing on thermal composting which is a type of composting that is super simple to get started and practically anyone can do.
Home Composting 101: How to Get Started
If there is one thing I want you to get out of this article, it is that COMPOSTING DOES NOT NEED TO BE THAT HARD! There is no right or wrong and you literally cannot screw it up. If you throw food scraps into an outside pile, they will eventually break down. It’s that simple! But, there are lots of ways to enhance this process so that you get beautiful nutrients for your plants in no time. This guide to home composting 101 will provide you with all the steps that I follow to keep the process easy with the best results.
“Composting does not have to be that hard!”
– Green Life Philosophy
Step 1: Find a location for your compost pile
Most people like to put a compost bin near their gardens, since this strategic location makes it easier to haul fresh compost over to your gardens in the spring and then empty your garden waste into the compost pile in the fall.
If you are using an open bin, it is best not to put it near the house as critters can be attracted to the food waste and you don’t want these special guests in your home!
Other locations could be at the back of your yard, against a fence, or at the edge of a woods. Try to keep it somewhat near your house though or there will be arguments over whose turn it is to empty your food scraps onto the pile in the middle of winter!
My tumbler bins are on the side of our house, close to the gardens and chicken coop, but not too far from the front door.
Step 2: Select a compost bin
Picture courtesy Shutterstock/Elina Elisseeva – two compartment open compost bin
This step is totally optional! Truly, all that you need is a place to keep your growing pile of scraps and that could simply mean throwing them in a mound on the ground. However, it is much tidier to keep the area enclosed on at least three sides. If you are concerned about animals digging for a meal, then consider an all enclosed vessel, like tumbler bins.
I recommend using a two compartment system. There is one compartment for actively adding scraps and one compartment for resting compost (the one you let sit and decompose). Once you harvest the compost, that pile becomes the one you add to and you let the other pile sit until finished.
You could build an enclosure yourself with wood planks, or consider purchasing a system (See section on equipment for recommendations).
Compost tumbler bins are my favorite way to compost. They are easy to add to, completely enclosed, simple to aerate, and allow you to dump your finished product right into a wheelbarrow.
Step 3: Collect compost material
Now the fun begins! All those food scraps and yard waste that you have been trashing can be easily repurposed into beautiful “black gold” that is essentially free fertilizer for your plants. It is such a cool process to watch!
Check out my list below about what is compostable. Essentially, most plant-based food and yard scraps are good and animal-based scraps (meat, bones, dairy, waste), are a no-no since they smell and attract animals. My list categorizes materials into greens and browns so you know what you are working with. More to come on the greens and browns in the next step.
Yard waste can go directly into your pile or bin, but you will need somewhere in your kitchen to collect food scraps before you put them in your pile. Some people simply keep a bowl on the counter and empty it daily. I prefer to use a countertop compost bucket with a charcoal filter to prevent odors and fruit flies since we only empty it one to two times per week.
Tip: If possible, try to break all items into 2 inch or smaller pieces prior to adding to your pail. This will help speed up the composting process.
Step 4: Pay attention to your greens and browns
Greens and browns, what?!? Many people tune out at this point and that’s okay! You really don’t have to worry about the ratio of materials you are putting in. Eventually everything will break down. BUT, if you want to speed up the process and have a nice smelling compost pile, it is beneficial to pay just a little bit of attention to what I’m about to say.
“Green” materials are scraps that have a high amount of nitrogen. These are typically wet things like food scraps, grass clippings, and chicken poop. It is confusing, because not everything is actually green.
“Brown” materials are scraps that have a high amount of carbon. These are usually dry things like cardboard, leaves, straw, and wood chips.
Green = Nitrogen | Brown = Carbon
When you start adding to your pile you should consider the ratio of greens to browns. Again, you don’t have to do this, but if the ratio is off, it will take longer for your compost to form as the bacteria are not as happy and your pile won’t heat up.
If your pile is a bit stinky, this is often an indication that there are too many nitrogen rich materials and not enough carbon and air. To keep your compost fresh smelling, you should aim to have 1/3 greens and 2/3 browns.
Ideal Compost Mix = 1/3 Greens + 2/3 Browns
Step 5: Add a scoop of soil
The first time you start adding your greens and browns to your compost pile, mix in a small scoop of soil to help jump start the process. The natural bacteria in the soil will help decompose your scraps.
In the future, you can leave a bit of finished compost in your bin as your starter for the new pile.
Step 6: Add water
Compost moisture is not an exact science. You want it wet, but not soggy. If it is too dry, the microbes can’t do their job and composting will be a very slow process.
So if your compost pile is looking dry, hose it down until it is damp, but not sopping wet.
Usually the more browns you add, the drier it gets and more greens means more wet.
Step 7: Add air
Another important component of compost is air. The microbes need oxygen in order to decompose the scraps.
If there is not enough oxygen, then you have anaerobic conditions. In this case your pile is just rotting and that gets smelly!
Be sure to give your pile a good turn every once in a while. Tumblers make this easy, but if you have a stand alone pile, you can use a pitchfork to lift and turn the material once a week or so.
Step 8: Give it time
There comes a point where you want to stop adding scraps to your compost pile and just let it sit so that the microbes can work their magic. In fact, when the conditions are right, the microbes will heat up the pile to 130-160 degrees Fahrenheit! That heat is what helps break things down even faster. This “hot compost” is why it is called thermal composting. Sometimes in the spring and fall I literally see steam coming off of my piles! Here are some bonus tips in my home composting 101 guide:
When do you stop adding to the pile? You get to be the judge of how large your pile is. You will get the warmest internal temperatures if your pile is at least 4 feet by 4 feet. If you have a tumbler or other enclosed bin then be sure to leave some room in there so that you can easily turn the contents. The beauty of a two compartment system is that you can add to one side while you let the other side sit and finish.
How long does compost take? Under the right conditions, microbes will turn your scraps into compost in just 3 to 8 weeks! However, if there are too many greens or it is dry and cold, you will notice that it takes a good 3 months or longer before your pile is looking like soil. And if you add chicken poop, you must wait at least 6 months to avoid burning your plants from the high nitrogen content.
How do you know when it is done? Once there are no longer identifiable chunks of scraps and the compost is a nice dark brown or black color, you know it is done. It should also have a pleasant, earthy smell. It is okay to still have some straw pieces or other small scraps visible since they will continue to break down when mixed in your gardens.
What about in the winter? Do not expect to harvest any compost in the winter as it is too cold and the microbes tend to hibernate! You can add to your compost pile year round, but in the winter it is unlikely to reach the internal temperatures needed to complete the process. I recommend leaving one pile to sit through fall, winter, and early spring. Once the outside temps warm up, check the moisture and give your pile a stir, then wait a few more weeks and you will have compost ready just in time to add to your vegetable gardens before planting. In the mean time add to a separate pile throughout the winter and you can expect it to be ready to harvest mid-summer.
Step 9: Harvest your compost
Of course the last step of home composting is to harvest and use your glorious plant nutrition.
There are several ways to do so. Simply shovel your compost into a wheelbarrow or bucket and do one of the following:
- Mix into your vegetable gardens in the spring prior to planting.
- Use a rake to spread on top of your flower beds, around shrubs, and perennials for a mulch.
- Use 50:50 with potting soil to provide nutrients to potted plants and container gardens, indoors and out.
- Spread a thin layer over your lawn. It will quickly settle down to the roots of the grass, especially if there is rain in the forecast. The perfect natural lawn fertilizer!
- Make compost tea by placing a gallon-sized amount into a burlap sack, old nylon, or compost tea bag. Place this tea bag into a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water (must be dechlorinated). Let it steep for 2 days to allow the nutrients and beneficial microbes to enter the water. You can enhance your tea with an aerator to pump in oxygen but this is optional. Use as a fertilizer spray on your lawn or plants.
- If you have more then you can use, share the wealth with a friend or neighbor.
Some gardeners swear by sifting compost before using it. This means you put it through a mesh screen to remove the remaining large pieces. I do not find this additional step necessary, especially if you are using the compost in your garden or as a top dressing mulch because the larger chunks will break down over time. However, if you are using as a lawn fertilizer you may want to remove the very large chunks as they won’t settle into the grass as easily.
What is Compostable?
This list is not all inclusive, but is a great start to help you figure out what is okay to put in your compost bin. The items are color coded into greens and browns if they are okay to add to your pile. Print this chart to keep handy so everyone in your home knows what is compostable.
Status | Greens | Browns | Neither |
Compostable |
|
| N/A |
Limited Quantities |
|
| N/A |
Do Not Compost | N/A | N/A |
|
*Chicken poop must be composted for at least 6 months to ensure it is not too “hot” with nitrogen, which will burn your plants. Rabbit droppings can be utilized right away or composted like normal.
**I am very careful about adding newspaper, paper, and cardboard that has been printed with ink. Many inks are made from toxic chemicals and you don’t want that in your compost. Plain paper or cardboard is best unless you know the ink is safe.
There is a really fun children’s composting book called Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth that helps kids and adults alike figure out what is compostable. Complete with rhymes and everything!
Home Composting 101: Compostable vs. Biodegradable
You may have seen the barrage of products now on the market that tout that they or their packaging are compostable or biodegradable. But what is the difference and can you throw it all in you compost pile? This is essential reading if you are considering doing so.
Compostable means that a material breaks down to its natural components under certain conditions. These are things like paper plates, straws, and cups. The catch here is “under certain conditions”. Although these products may break down in industrial composting facilities that can control oxygen and temperature, they may not easily break down in your backyard pile. So be sure to read labels carefully and look for products that say safe for home composting.
Biodegradable means any material that breaks down in the environment or landfill. The term is very misleading as almost all materials will break down if given enough time. Items that are compostable are also biodegradable, but biodegradable products are not necessarily compostable. That is because biodegradable items can be made from inorganic materials which can take years (or even centuries) to break down and leave toxic residues. These are not things you want in your compost.
Bioplastics are another term to become familiar with. You will see bioplastics in some disposable cutlery and film windows on pasta boxes. These bioplastics are made from plant-based materials like cornstarch and vegetable oils. Sounds like they can be composted, right? Not so fast. Again, these materials need to be in the right conditions to break down quickly. That means a commercial composter may be necessary.
Bottom line: Don’t trust products labeled as biodegradable. Add bioplastics and home compostable products in moderation to your compost pile and don’t be surprised if they are still there, fully intact, when you go to harvest.
Home Composting 101: Equipment
Compost Bins
The different options for compost bins are all pretty comparable in price, but the designs vary widely. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of the most common types of bins. Of course, if you want to save money, you could build your own open bin with reclaimed wood, or simply start a pile without sides.
Type of Bin | Advantages | Disadvantages |
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| |
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Home Composting 101: Recommended Accessories
Here are some supplies that can make composting a bit easier to collect and use.
Accessory | Picture | Description |
1.3 gallon bucket to collect scraps indoors then transfer to outdoor bin. Comes with 2 charcoal filters that can be washed and reused to prevent smells and fruit flies. | ||
Perfect size for a 5 gallon bucket. Comes with a recipe for your "brew". | ||
Fits a 5 gallon bucket to introduce bubbles into compost tea, which will activate the microbes to "brew" your tea. Requires a pump to work. | ||
Attach to aerator in your compost tea bucket. | ||
Perfect size for home compost tea brewers. BPA free. Comes with a lid. |
Household Compostables
Composting goes beyond food scraps. These products are also great ways to reduce your overall household waste.
Item | Picture | Description |
Unbleached, chlorine free, and certified for home composting. Transfer both the filter and coffee grounds directly to compost container. Box has vegetable based inks and okay to compost. | ||
Certified organic tea blends in plastic-free, unbleached, compostable bags made from hemp and wood pulp. Simply put the entire tea bag and contents into your compost bin. | ||
Add a scoop of your favorite loose leaf tea (check out my favorite, Rishi), steep in a cup of hot water, then empty the tea leaves directly into compost. | ||
Unbleached, chorine free, responsibly sourced wood pulp with silicone coating. Certified home compostable. Rip into 1-2 inch strips and add to compost pile. Box has vegetable based inks and okay to compost. | ||
Perfect substitute for making muffins and cupcakes. Unbleached, chorine free, responsibly sourced wood pulp. Certified home compostable. Box has vegetable based inks and okay to compost. | ||
Unbleached, chorine free, responsibly sourced wood pulp. No petroleum. Certified home compostable. Rip into 1-2 inch strips and add to compost pile. Box has vegetable based inks and okay to compost. | ||
Made from cellulose and cotton. Unbleached and uses water-based dyes. Not certified home compostable, but I personally have had success by cutting into 1-2 inch pieces prior to putting on my pile. |
Best Books About Composting
Of course, I could not include everything in my home composting 101 guide. This information is meant to give you all the basics to get you started. If you are craving more details, or want to learn about other types of composting, check out these excellent books. Again, composting does not have to be hard, but these resources can make it even easier for you and your little ones!
Book | Title | Description |
Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth | A fun, rhyming children's book that teaches kids and adults alike what is okay to compost. | |
Beautiful pictures and simple language to make composting even easier. A wonderful guide for beginner's and long time composters. | ||
Worm Farming: Creating Compost at Home With Vermiculture by Jason Johns | A complete guide to vermicomposting. Learn how you can compost in an apartment or improve your yard compost. | |
Bokashi Composting: Scraps to Soil in Weeks | Learn all about this special composting technique to ferment your food scraps. This is a type of composting that can be done indoors. | |
Compost Teas for the Organic Grower | Everything you need to know about making compost tea at home. |
What if I Don’t Have a Yard?
Don’t have a yard? No problem! You still have lots of options for composting. Here are a few to consider
1. Check if your municipality has a drop site: Some municipalities will collect at the curb or offer a drop site to empty your compost. If your city does not have a drop site, look around at your nearby university or grocery store to see if they will accept personal compost
2. Find a composting company: There are now lots of companies that will take your compost for a fee. Often they will even supply a collection bin and have a set schedule for curbside pick-up.
3. Try worm composting: Vermicomposting is a way to speed up the composting process and can be done right in your home. You can make a worm bin out of a plastic storage container or other large bin that you can store in a place like your laundry room. You basically feed your worms with your food scraps and they gladly eat it up and make worm castings (the compost). You can then use your compost or find a friend or nearby greenhouse that would want to take it. See above for a book recommendation on worm composting.
4. Check out Bokashi composting: A method to ferment food scraps in enclosed buckets. Easy to do indoors. You do have to purchase bacteria starter. See above for a book recommendation on Bokashi.
5. Add to a friend’s pile: If you can’t find any other options and don’t want to try worm or Bokashi composting in your apartment, you can always put out a call to your friends to see if anyone would like extra food scraps to compost. You may be surprised!
That concludes this home composting 101 guide. Even though there is a lot of information here, I hope you find that composting really is quite easy. Time to start a pile of your own! Be sure to share your experiences in the comments.
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